Issue #9 - 22nd - 28th June
Summer solstice, La Noche de San Juan y bagels
As if we weren’t already feeling it, La Noche de San Juan is here to confirm that summer has officially arrived in España.
On the 23rd June, Spain celebrates with bonfires, fireworks and very little sleep.
Expect an even later night than usual (how very Spanish).
If you’ve got guests this week, here’s hoping you have aire acondicionado. Nothing tests a friendship quite like a Madrid ola de calor. Because 39 grados is no joke.
We’ve got some sun-safe activities, from a quieter lido recommendation to cheap train tickets for under 30s to help you escape the city without breaking the bank, as well as the best bagels.
La Elipa Lido - The whole city seems to flock to Casa de Campo lido every weekend. While it’s great, and hay mas space now that the second pool has opened, you have to fight for a spot with some shade, and are almost guaranteed to bump into someone you know. So, for some real downtime, try out La Elipa. In the Morataliz, the pool at Centro Deportivo Municipal La Elipa boasts many of the same perks, like the pricepoint and reprive from the sun, with less of the hassle. F x
Verano Joven travel scheme - One of the many reasons why Madrid is el mejor ciudad de España is it’s central situation and great transport links (ignoring the fact it takes two years to trek to the North). You can get to all the major cities- such as Valencia, Barcelona, Sevilla and Malaga - by high speed (air conditioned) train in under three hours. Normally, unless you book muchos meses in advance, the price can often be a punch in the gut. However, this summer the government is actually doing some good (who knew?) and reintroducing their Verano Joven travel scheme. By signing up via this link, those between 18 and 30 years-old can travel with up to 90% discount over the summer (1st July to 30th September)! ¡Maravilloso! Receive a 50% discount for the high speed trains and even a 50% discount for the Interrail pass if you fancy venturing further afield! G x
Alexandra Hakim Jewellery pop-up - If jewellery is your thing, but you want something original, you won’t want to miss the Alexandra Hakim pop-up at WOW Concept Store in Salamanca. For the next week (from the 22nd June to 28th of June) you can check out their unique pieces from 10am until 10pm everyday. C. de Serrano, 52! F x
Fiestas de Orgullo - This summer, the streets will be filled with colour, music, dancing, and enough glitter to be visible from space. Madrid Pride runs from 25th June to 5th July, with most of the festivities taking place around Chueca. Most anticipated is the parade on 4th July, from Atocha to Colon. G x
Erborian pop up - The skincare brand Erborian is holding a free pop-up in Plaza del Carmen between the 26th and 28th. G x
The great Bagel off
When it comes to bagels, two spots dominate the conversation in Madrid: SiSi’s Bagels and Mazál Bagels & Café.
Both promise New York-style bagels, freshly baked in-house everyday.
Though very un-Spanish, we thought we would give them a try and let you know which one comes out on top (for the sake of our subscribers, of course).
SiSi’s Bagels
I walked to SiSi’s Bagels for a very local almuerzo at about 4pm, so by the time I arrived, I had worked-up quite the appetite.
I’d love to say I smelled it before I saw it, but that would be a lie. In fact, I almost walked past it altogether. Tucked away just off of a quiet square corner, the bagelry has a beachy feel to it, with a cute tiled logo and azul claro facade.
Inside, it is an ode to America, with stars and stripes in abundance, and tacky football (in the American sense) memorabelia lining the walls.
The menu is extensive, ranging from the classics like smoked salmon and cream cheese, to egg and bacon bagels. Since it was closer to dinner than breakfast, I opted for a tuna melt on a four-cheese bagel. Laugh if you must, but tuna melt is a top-tier sandwich filling.
It was 12.95€, and sadly for my bank account, I wasn’t done yet. I’d seen a Tiramisu Latte on a poster in the window. A dessert in a drink, the poster promised. And, too easily swayed, I could not resist.
When the price on the till jumped to 22.95€, my heart sank a little. It was the most i’d ever spent on a latte, and i’ve been to New York. But, in the spirit of treating myself, and too embarassed to ask for it to be removed, I tapped my tarjeta and accepted my fate.
There are seats downstairs, and I admired the foam hands that lined the walls while I waited for my name to be called.
The bagels are described as ‘un bagel generoso’, but honestly, that is an understatement. My one tuna melt could have fed a hungry family of four. I struggled to eat half, and took the rest home, before devouring my dessert-drink. It did not disappoint.
All in all, Si Si’s was delicious. It was a bit pricy, but the sheer size of the bagel, and fact I could eat it for two meals, meant it was definitely worth it. I ate my leftovers the next day for lunch - it didn’t taste as fresh, but was as rico.
I probably wouldn’t get the 10€ latte again, but I have no regrets and would recommend trying it for the novelty.
There are three shops - the one I went to in Malasaña, Si Si Bagels Anton Martin and Si Si Bagels Olavide.
Mazál Bagels & Café
A retro light-box sign beckons from outside, and inside you’re met with aircon and a kitsch, American style diner.
It was a little more refined than Si Si’s, though it’s New York inspiration was clear from the coffee filter, to the booths.
I’d already decided what I was going to order before I got to Mazál. I was craving a classic - smoked salmon, cream cheese and a bit of dill and lemon to top it off. So when I saw It’s Not a Big Dill on the menu, I was sold.
It’s considered one of the Classics, and was an ‘open bagel’, so required a knife and fork (I learned this the hard way). Mazál’s was noticably cheaper than Si Si’s - my bagel was 11.70€, and some of the other open bagels started at 8.40€.
Unlike at some bagel shops, they gave ample smoked salmon. There is nothing worse than when they stinge out on one of the key ingredients.
It was also delicioso, but a lot smaller. Maybe heavier. I walked out feeling 3 months pregnant, which I hadn’t at Si Si’s, but then again, I had eaten a bit more here.
There are two shops - one in Chamberí and otra in Ópera. I’ve eaten in both, but this time tried the Ópera location. I think the Chamberí one is nicer because it has a sweet little outdoor seating area, and was generally a bit brighter. Still American diner-style decor and feel.
Comparing the two, I preferred Si Si’s. And, even though it’s a bit more expensive, I think you get more bang for your buck at Si Si’s. The staff being so sweet there also made a big difference. So, if you’re choosing between los dos, go to Si Si’s. F x
The Basque Cheesecake Review
La Duquesita
C. de Fernando VI, 2, Centro. It’s in Justicia, a very nice barrio of Madrid. I got it to take away and ate it in Plaza de las Salesas.
This bakery is worth a visit, even if you don’t plan on buying anything.
Opened in 1914, it feels like stepping back in time, with its wooden exterior, glass display cabinets, and counters piled high with perfectly arranged pastries.
So, of course, the Basque cheesecake did not disappoint. There are two varieties - one plain, and one with lightly sugared fruits. Both are 6.30€, so naturally I went for the one with the fruit to get my money’s worth. It is a whole mini cheesecake, rather than a slice.
The texture was creamy, but not overbearing, and because it is refridgerated in the shop, it was still a little cold, though I liked that. The fruit was a nice addition, as the cheesecake itself wasn’t very sweet. It’s more than enough to share. It would get another 0.5, were it not for the price.
Rating: 4/5
Delicious and would recommend between two. F x
Richard Avedon: In the American West, 1979-1984
The name Richard Avedon rang a bell when I saw it displayed on a banner outside of the Fundación Mapfre. I vaguely recalled his name being mentioned in a Vogue interview with Cindy Crawford, but then again perhaps I was getting this Richard muddled up with a friend’s dad or a balding former professor.
Surprisingly, I was on the right track for once. Richard Avedon, for those unfamiliar with his name, was a legendary American photographer who worked at the fashion giant Vogue for over 20 years, as well as Harper’s Bazaar and Elle.
Although famous for his fashion photography, he also merged portraiture with sharp political commentary, demonstrated as such in this new exhibition Richard Avedon: In the American West, 1979-1984.
The exhibition pays tribute to the photo book In the American West, published in 1985. Avedon travelled across 21 states to photograph more than a thousand people - miners, ranchers, vagabonds, fairgrounders, factory workers and waiters.
His minimalistic studio portraits construct fascinating individual narratives that compel you to stare at the subject for an extended period of time. Each wrinkle and blemish tell a story, and you can’t help but wonder what became of them all.
If you’re under 26, you can visit the exhibition at the Fundación Mapfre in Justicia totally gratis (a ticket is 5€ otherwise), until 30th August.
Puy du Fou or Puy du Flop?
How to describe Puy du Fou? This is something I am often unable to do.
When asked, I normally reply “it’s a sort of historical theme park without rides” which seems to provoke a further look of bemusement, but really I think the only way you can truly understand it is to go yourself.
Puy du Fou is a unique series of theatrical shows set within a Disneyland-esque world. It’s designed to teach about the history of the area, with most productions centred around some sort of heated battle and passionate fight for love.
Between shows, you wander through themed historical villages complete with restaurants and artisan shops: you could be clinking tankards in a Viking village one minute, and then watching a gory Roman battle unfold the next.
Everything is to a Hollywood standard. The shows are all fantastically costumed and choreographed, with daring stunts, dancing and horses galloping across a stage flooded with water. Meanwhile the special effects - fire, explosions and huge moving sets - are really quite incredible and leave you stunned as to the artistry behind them.
There are two locations: one in Vendée, in France, and one in Toledo, a short train ride from Madrid (with a third soon to start construction in Oxfordshire, England).
Having been twice to the original French location (chicos - I am neither a Disney adult nor a lover of musical theatre, so please trust me on this one), I thought when in Rome and booked to go to Toledo.
As long as you don’t book last minute, a ticket will cost you 29€, which I think is a steal considering the originality and standard of the attraction. However, if you don’t have a car, it will cost you an eye-watering 44€ round trip to get to the park from the centre of Toledo by taxi (use Bolt for a cheaper ride) so find yourself a driver! Yikes!
Having been to both parks, the Toledo location was certainly much smaller. There were only six shows, compared to the other’s 18, and you were left waiting around a lot in the unrelenting sun in-between performances, which did inevitably wear on the moral.
Although it’s a fantastic day out, I’d recommend prioritising a visit to the Vendée location, because sometimes bigger is better. There they also have the magnificent Cinéscénie - the world’s largest night show set across a 23 hectare stage with 2,550 actors!
Nonetheless, if you find yourself craving a spot of time travel without the extravagance of a jaunt to France, definitely consider an outing to Puy du Fou Toledo!
Bye for now, Tacañas. Hablamos pronto!
G and F x